January 3, 2017Comments are off for this post.

Steampunk Apple Watch Cover

Steampunk Apple Watch


Synopsis: How I made a steampunk cover for my Apple Watch.  It was designed using Rhino & Zbrush and manufactured in copper by i.materialise.


After completing the Ironclad Apple Watch cover I posted photos about it online.  One place I posted to was Reddit, a news aggregation, web content rating, and discussion website - basically a big community discussion board separated by interests. Posting personal creations on Reddit is always an experience.  Reactions can range from incredibly nice to just as incredibly savage.  You quickly learn to build a thicker skin.

A portion of the criticism on Reddit can be described as trolling - attacks meant to be hurtful -  and though some trolls are pretty funny you learn to ignore the assholes and get on with your life.  But it's not all trolling. In fact you get a lot of nice comments; and it’s really gratifying to get compliments from strangers throughout the world. 

But it’s also helpful to receive honest, even if it’s harsh, criticism from people who appreciate the work put into something but explain why they don’t like it. I take that criticism to heart because it causes me to reevaluate my work by seeing it through new eyes.

Sometimes a person will say something and their observation is so obvious that I ask "why didn't I think of that in the first place?!" The answer is that sometimes you get caught up in a design that you lose sight of the bigger design picture.  Other times the critique is more subjective and I won't change it because it's a choice I stand by no matter the criticism.    

One comment on Reddit about the Ironclad Apple Watch cover stuck with me:   

Riveted Iron is not the same as steampunk.

That term gets way overused online, it's almost lost all meaning 🙁

This critic was right.  But in my defense, I thought that not too many people would immediately know what “ironclad” meant. But if I used “steampunk style” as a catch all, people clicking on the link who were unaware of ironclad ships would have an notion of what to expect since they probably had some idea of what "steampunk" meant.  I guess it’s sort of like cheese-food in relation to real cheese; it’s similar but not the really same.

I decided to fix that and go full on steampunk. 

Copper: A Steampunk Staple

I previously worked with bronze and silver for the Ironclad covers but for that true Steampunk aesthetic this cover had to be copper.  I've been trying to get something made in copper ever since i.materialise started offering it as a material. Copper is a beautiful metal that gains character through use and is lustrous when polished so I really wanted to work with it. The problems I had were either related to money  (too expensive to justify) or design (I kept getting rejected for one reason or another).   With this project I knew I had a good candidate for something affordable and castable. 

I wouldn’t have to do too much redesigning because I had the unadorned base model from the ironclad cover. This was sort of accurate.  I didn’t have to do much but what I did do was very fiddly and I don’t know if it would have been easier to just start from scratch like I did with the 38mm cover or do what I did and just play around with the model I already had. 

Everything worked out but the real big thing that I had to do before remodeling was to get ideas about how I wanted this thing to look! Steampunk items look very high tech in an old tech way.  I did some google image searches for 19th century steam boilers and electrical transformers of the same era (along with dynamos, turbines, etc).

This old engine picture inspired several parts of the Steampunk cover.

Since the Apple Watch obviously runs on electricity this cover was going to have to look like it used a boiler of some kind to convert steam to reciprocating motion to generate electricity to power the watch.  Given the real estate available, I decided to compartmentalize things.   Each side of the watch would serve a different purpose that when operating in concert would  make the "Apple Watch Machine"  work.

Since one side had the digital crown and a button I decided that would be the control area of "the machine”. The bottom quarter would house steam fittings, the left quarter would be the gears and a connecting rod, and the top quarter and bezel would have electrical related things.  And the whole case itself would be the boiler.  

The cover pre-sculpt with the various parts highlighted. The "Control Panel" can't be seen from this angle unfortunately.

Once I decided on a design it was just a matter of making neat little pieces that would fit on the watch and meet the design specifications for wax printing and then copper casting.  Oh, and sculpting the little extras that I prefer to do in ZBrush rather than in Rhinoceros.

Waiting, Receiving, and Patinating

I knew that this cover would fit my watch so once I was happy with the overall design all I had to do was upload it to i.materialise and wait.   One of many nice things about i.materialize is that they won’t just cancel your order if it’s something that has some potential manufacturing issues. After their engineers complete their manual review of the model, they will contact you and explain the potential problems, and ask if you want to proceed.

I mention that because I did in fact receive an email  wherein they explained that some of the details on the design were a bit too fine and would probably be lost during production. Since I knew I would be doing further surface treatments I told them to go ahead and produce the cover. It’s nice from a customer point-of-view that i.materialize just doesn’t cancel an order outright but give the designer opportunity to correct the issues identified

Now it was just a matter of waiting for the case to be made and shipped to me.  Copper is usually done in 10 days so I had at least that much time to go look for an appropriate band to go with the cover. I didn’t want another cuff design like last time but it did have to be leather.  I saw a photo of the Apple Watch Hermès with the double tour band and thought something like that would look amazing with the copper cover. I went on Amazon and did a search for double tour bands.  I really liked this green leather one I found on Amazon Handmade; but I also happened upon this other green leather band that came with a cuff in case I wanted to go that route and a second shorter band.  Even better, I got it used! It arrived in a few days and looked even better than the photos.  I was getting excited to see how it would pair with the cover.

I got an email letting me know that the cover was shipped and should arrive from Belgium in a couple days.  When UPS drove up I pretty much ran out to door to get the package and ran back inside to open it up.  I was really pleased with what I saw.  Here are some photos of the cover straight from the box.

It was beautiful and nearly perfect, but sadly the connecting rod on the left side of the cover didn’t survive the manufacturing process. But I had been warned that some parts might not make it, so I wasn’t complaining, since every other detail looked perfect. I especially liked how the little “control hood” over the button came out – it’s my favorite part of the cover.

I liked the bright and shiny appearance, but now I had to decide if I actually wanted to go through with giving the cover a surface treatment. I waited a few days then said “What the hell” and dumped it in a solution of liver of sulphur and hot water.  The surface changed pretty much instantaneously from shiny coppery orange to a matte charcoal black. There was no going back now.

Now the cover required some careful Dremel work. The steam fittings and the “electric wires” on the bottom and top would be very susceptible to damage, so I had to be careful. This part of the process took a good bit of time. I switched bits frequently depending on if I wanted scratches, high polish, or something in between. It had to look beat up but also cared for, like a real piece of machinery at a manufacturing plant.

 When I was happy with the look, I applied some Renaissance Wax to protect the patina. You can see the results above.

In the end I do like the patina more than the polished copper; but I really like how that polished copper looked as well. It would be nice to have both on hand to do a side by side comparison. 

I believe this cover can definitely be called “steampunk” without reservation.     If you want one for yourself, it can be purchased on my Etsy store

Note on the photos:  I use an Olympus E-PL1 camera and an Olympus 60 mm macro lens. All the photos are taken using a Foldio 2 as a lightbox

If you find yourself needing to take lots of pictures of small things it’s invaluable to have around.  The Foldio 2 is great because it’s bigger than the Foldio 1 (which I had been using) and it has two LED light strips that plug into the wall (the first one had one strip and it ran off a 9 volt battery).  It makes it super easy to take photos in a neutral environment which makes color correction in Photoshop a snap. 

 

November 4, 2016Comments are off for this post.

Ironclad Apple Watch Cover Revisited

bigandlittle-01

I decided to revisit the Ironclad Apple Watch cover after the success of the initial version.  (The detailed account can be read here.) I had planned on making a truly steampunk version -  still in the works, I’ve just been sidetracked by things lately - but I did get around to making a copy in silver and a cover for my wife’s 38 mm Apple Watch.

The Silverclad Cover

One reason why I chose bronze when I made the first cover is that silver is more expensive than bronze. I did make plastic prototypes on my home 3D printer to minimize the likelihood of a mistake but I think we’ve all had those times where we’ve measured something multiple times and then when you cut the 2x4 the piece magically doesn’t fit. 

If I had somehow messed up on a measurement it would have been more costly had I made my first metal cover in silver.  I did like the bronze color, especially for that vintage look, however silver with a nice patina looks really classy and goes with more things. 

Since I knew that the cover would fit all I had to do was order another copy from Shapeways. I picked raw silver because it’s just mechanically polished and tends to show print lines and have a rougher surface texture. Since I wanted the cover to have more pits and scratches - i.e. - places for the patina to reside - it was the perfect choice.

ironclad-rawsilver-01
Now it was just a matter of waiting for the case to be made and shipped to me.  I placed my order on 10/19 and it arrived on 11/03 - around two weeks. Like last time, I ordered an EloBeth leather cuff from Amazon for $22 with free Prime shipping.  I got it in gray to go with the silver cover. I think the brown cuff I previously purchased is slightly better quality, but for the price I’m not really complaining.

ironclad-rawsilver-02

There can be slight variations between individual prints so when the cover arrived from Shapeways I immediately put it on my Apple Watch to check for fit.  This is especially true when printing something in steel (which I don’t recommend using if you need accuracy because it will shrink and distort depending on it’s print orientation and how it’s cured).

The "Silverclad" cover was fine though! It fit exactly how its was supposed to and looked pretty cool to boot. I almost didn’t want to add the patina.  Almost. 

I filled my trusty beaker with a mixture of Liver of Sulphur and hot water and placed the silver cover into the stink (REALLY rotten eggs). After a time I removed the cover and it had a really cool looking matte gray.  It almost looked battleship gray which, à propos of the design inspiration, seemed appropriate. Again, I almost didn’t want to change it.  Almost.

Battleship Gray

Battleship Gray

I popped a polishing bit on my Dremel and started the process of distressing the cover.  As I went about the task I grew more glad that I did the patina because (a) I thought it was coming out really great and (2) it gave me some really cool ideas on where I would like to go in the future.

Here are some photos of the finished cover on the Apple Watch and with the gray leather wrist cuff.

The Ironclad ’38

My wife also just got an Apple Watch and as you might guess, it was the smaller version.  Now I could use her watch as a cover Guinea pig!  You’d think - and I certainly did - that it would be easy enough to just scale the 42 mm cover down to fit the smaller watch.  But, it didn’t work right so it was back to the drawing board. 

Since I had gone through this when I made the 42 mm cover the process went somewhat quicker.  Again I consulted the “Band Design Guidelines for Apple Watch,” made a new digital lug in Rhino, and got to work.  In deference to my wife I made the new case as thin as I could so as to not add too much extra bulk to the watch.  We’re talking shaving off a few tenths of a millimeter here and there but I’m a firm proponent in the aggregation of marginal gains.

New design, new prototypes on my New Matter MOD-t.

New design, new prototypes printed in SLA on my New Matter MOD-t 3D printer.

The first prototype is when I just tried to scale the original cover to fit the smaller watch.  It didn’t work at all.  So really, it only took me two prototypes before I got a cover that worked.  Then it was just rinse and repeat; open the finished cover in ZBrush and start sculpting in the details.  After that, upload to Shapeways and order a print.  I got bronze again because I didn’t want to be out too much money in case it didn’t fit - and I was more concerned about that this time because the tolerances were a lot tighter than for the previous cover. 

Aesthetically this version had to be more feminine so instead of the cuff style band I opted to get the Double Buckle Cuff that EloBeth offers. It’s slightly more affordable than the Hermès version that Apple sells.  I wasn’t sure how it would pair with the cover but I figured I might as well give it a shot.  (I think it looks really awesome).

When the cover arrived (it arrived with the silver cover) I went about my business. So while I was working on the Silverclad cover the ’38 was sitting in the Liver of Sulphur.  I thought it might be neat to show just have fast a reaction the sulphur bath has on the metal.  I put half the cover in the water for about 30 seconds and then removed it.  The photos show the difference.  Pretty crazy huh?

Anyway, soon I was polishing the cover with the Dremel and really getting a kick out of how it was coming out.  When I reached a point where I was happy with the patina, I applied some Renaissance Wax (I omitted this step in my previous post) to preserve
the finish and buffed it with a paper towel.

renaissancewaxpapertowel

Here are the photos of the finished cover!

If you are interested in purchasing one of these Steampunk Apple Watch covers I have them for sale  on this website (42 mm | 38 mm) on Etsy, and via Shapeways.

Side note on the photos:  I use an old Olympus E-PL1 camera and an Olympus 60 mm macro lens. All the photos are taken using a Foldio 2 as a lightbox

foldio

If you find yourself needing to take lots of pictures of small things it’s invaluable to have around.  The Foldio 2 is great because it’s bigger than the Foldio 1 (which I had been using) and it has two LED light strips that plug into the wall (the first one had one strip and it ran off a 9 volt battery).  It makes it super easy to take photos in a neutral environment and which makes color correction a snap. 

October 15, 2016Comments are off for this post.

Ironclad Apple Watch Cover

blended-watch

I recently purchased an Apple Watch and although I’m fine with how it looks, I wanted to try making a cover to protect it and maybe make it stand out a little. 

All the covers/bumpers/protectors currently available look the same to me.  They are plastic that either look like metal or  chunky cases that turn the watch into a G-Shock.

Recently I found myself looking at old photographs of ironclad ships from the late 19th century.  You know, ships like the US Civil War steamship USS Monitor.  I really liked the rough and ready look of the riveted iron sheathing and decided to reference that design language when creating the look of my new watch case. In normal speak; I was going make my watch case look like an old warship.

The first thing I had to do was make a base model that fit the watch that I would ornament later.  Conveniently, Apple released a pretty comprehensive document called “Band Design Guidelines for Apple Watch,” that shows nearly every dimension of the watch.  That is a good baseline to start. But experience has taught me that it’s more useful to have the watch IRL and a set of digital calipers for quick on the spot measurements and troubleshooting.

I don’t really sketch my ideas out on paper. I’m more comfortable starting out on the computer and began to create my base model using Rhinoceros - my go to 3D modeling software.

apple watch lug

The digital "lug" and a version of the case

In short I created a “lug” which is nothing more than a simple model of the Apple Watch itself with a minimal amount of detail.  (Basically the outer case, the sensor disc on the bottom, and the button and digital crown on the side.) I worked off that lug (bouncing ideas and trying various concepts out) to create the case keeping in mind that the end goal would be made in cast metal (which has it’s own set of guidelines).

Off and on, I spent the next couple days roughly the following ways:  trying out a new idea, seeing how things worked, hitting walls, starting from scratch, sleeping on it, trying something new, failing, going for a run with my dog, approaching from a new direction, etc. 

My first attempt is always a MK1.  Any iterations on that model become a MK1.1.  When I feel that I’ve exhausted my well of ideas as they relate to that particular base model,  I start over from scratch and that becomes, you guessed it, a MK2.  I follow this process until I settle on something the meets my needs, will work 90% of the time, and fits within my budget.

The model that did that for me was the MK4. Once I was hit this milepost, I warmed up my home 3D printer (a New Matter MOD-t) and printed the result in PLA plastic (taking account of the 2 to 3% shrink factor that may occur with PLA printing). 

four-plastic-cases

Variations printed on my New Matter MOD-t

It didn’t fit right. The openings for the band weren’t placed correctly.

MK4.1.  Fix the openings and print again. 

The bands fit well but the bottom arms were too weak and would probably bend too easily in metal or might blow out in casting. (One actually broke on the plastic print.)

MK4.2. Strengthened the walls of the band opening and I added some ornamental struts on the top.  Started to print and “DOH!” Forgot to make the openings for the band!  Not really a problem though since I knew from the prior design that my measurements were fine.  I also found out I didn’t like the struts anyway.   

Finally, I printed MK4.2.3 and it fit well and would definitely be producible in cast metal. A couple minor touch ups and this model became the MK04.03 - the base model.

The next step was opening this model in a sculpting program called ZBrush. Could I have done the ornamental portions in Rhino?  Yes, but the end result would look too perfect.  By “hand” sculpting, the details would more closely approximate the look of the iron sheathing of the ship - which if you look closely, looks almost haphazard and is definitely imperfect -  lines aren’t straight, rivets aren’t perfectly in line, etc.

The case after some sculpting in ZBrush

The case after some sculpting in ZBrush

This sculpted model is now the final digital product.  The thing to do now is to get it sent off to a producer.  I often use Shapeways for this step because they offer 3D prints in variety of materials at reasonable prices with quick turnaround time.  It’s still not what you would call cheap, which is the reason I spent the time with my MOD-t iterating the design at home before I spent more sizable money on a quality print.    

I decided to get the first real print done in raw bronze.  I chose bronze because it’s an “old timey” metal and because from working with it in the past, I knew I could put a nice patina on it later using Liver of Sulphur.

I also thought that the color and overall design of the case would look really nice paired with a leather band that one might have been able to procure back in the 1860’s.  This band on Amazon fit the bill so I ordered it so that I’d have it when the case arrived from Shapeways.   

When the case arrived I took some photos so I could document how it looked before I did anything further to it.  A nice thing about Shapeways is that you can sell the things you make.  So I wanted to make sure I had photos of the case before I did any additional work  so that folks would know what they would get if they bought one. 

four-plastic-casesmetal

Raw bronze case straight out of the Shapeways box.

Raw bronze case straight out of the Shapeways box.

The final step was to patina the case.  Liver of Sulphur is a great thing to have around if you like to put interesting surface treatments on metals.  It’s fairly innocuous - though it does stink - but because it is a chemical I try to be as safe as possible.  Goggles, proper glassware and use of a fume hood (the blower above my stove!). The process is pretty simple.

Warm water + Liver of Sulphur + the object to be treated. 

Getting treated in a bath of water and liver of sulphur

Getting treated in a bath of water and liver of sulphur

Let sit.  Stir a bit.  Let sit.  When it’s about done take it out and put it in a glass with baking soda to cancel out the reaction.  Wipe a bit with some paper towels. 

Baking soda bath and case post treatment

Baking soda bath and case post treatment

Polish and clean a bit with a Dremel.

Polish and clean with a Dremel rotary tool

Polish and clean with a Dremel rotary tool

For the final touch, I cropped this old photo of USS Monitor and added a sepia tone to it.  I then uploaded that photo to my watch to use as the background. Here’s a link to that cropped photo.

Once all that is done, put it all together and take some photos!

And that’s how I made an Apple Watch cover modeled after an ironclad ship.

EDIT: I wasn't really expecting this to be so popular!  A lot of folks have asked so if you are interested in purchasing one of these Steampunk Apple Watch covers I have just added them for sale right here on this website, on Etsy, and via Shapeways.

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